Paris Museum Pass: 2, 4, or 6 days of bliss

This is the actual multi-day museum pass Frugal Scholar was referring to in her comment on my post on Musee D'Orsay this week.

I was simply suggesting you buy your tickets for the Musee D'Orsay on-line prior to the day you go, but she is right: the Museum Pass (which I have never used, fyi) does seem a great deal for the money: 4 days for 56euro? I think I'll buy one this summer when I am in Paris only for that short stay.

Researching the site further, I realize why I never bought one before: you can either have it shipped to you (for an additional cost, which lessens the economical appeal) ....or pick it up when arriving in Paris, on rue des Pyramids for free. Or buy it in the CDG airport, or FNAC outlets.

Okay, it's sounding better and easier.

Given that the pass includes entry to the Musee D'Orsay, the Musee national de l'Orangerie, the Musee Cluny (medieval art and culture), the Louvre, the Musee Rodin, and the Musees des arts decoratifs, when it costs me 16euro alone for the first two sites... and it will get me in without waiting on lines... and I'll have paid for all of my entries upfront and never have to worry/open my wallet again, this seems a worthwhile purchase.

It also means that I'll be bound and determined to get to at least 4-5 museums during my five-day stay, no matter what.

Musee D'Orsay: #1 tip for visitors to Paris

I have not exactly picked up the ball and run with it, or some other athletic metaphor. But January through mid-March has been another wild ride (why do I think my life will be quieter or run more smoothly or peacefully? It is a delusion I am consistently seduced by...)

But here is Paris share 1/50: The Musee D'Orsay.




Musee D'Orsay, from across Seine

Forget the Louvre. well, don't "forget" it, but let's get real: the Louvre is a wonderful repository of artifacts and global art--but if you want to "know" Paris go to the Musee D'Orsay. Spend a morning there, after which your entire Paris experience will be richer, deeper, more complex and interesting.

Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 9:30*-6 (except Mondays); open Thursday nights to 9:45 pm.
Cafes: 3 inside; carts outside, and nearby cafes (tourist prices)

The museum is a renovated train station and it is one of the most difficult interiors to navigate. Pick up a map. To get to the 5th floor: go directly to the rear of the main floor and take the escalators at rear center all the way to the top. To get to the niveau median: go left (East) or right (West), up one set to steps and down the long hall of rooms which open into/through/around one another.

Interested in Monet? Manet? Degas? Van Gogh? Toulouse-Lautrec? Gaugin? Caillebotte? Renoir? Courbet? Corot? Any painter/sculptor/designer/photographer of the 19th century? You'll find them here, in juxtaposition with their peers. If you pay attention, this is as much about the evolution of Paris during the 19th century as it is about the evolution of art.



For Impressionist Rooms: walk down this central hall to rear, take escalators

When heading for the Impressionists, ignore everything else.

In specific order, here's what you must see:

1. The Impressionist section (fifth floor, SE corner). This is the intense collection of paintings and sculptures by Monet, Manet, Degas, Renoir, and their associated pals between the 1860s and 1880s. Come early to avoid crowds, ignore the tourists filming (instead of looking at) the paintings, and find bliss.
2. The pastels and drawings of Degas, Lautrec, and others--same floor. Smaller, intimate dark rooms to preserve the materials/media.
3. Van Gogh, Lautrec and later post-Impressionists:W side, 1 staircase up from entry floor, Rms 71-2 (Niveau median).
4. Individual (free/unticketed) exhibitions.

Of course, if you have a ticket to a special exhibition, these are usually very popular and crowded, so go there after #1 (Impressionists are ALWAYS the most crowded and thus annoying rooms.)

Impressionist Rooms, Musee D'Orsay

If you are interested in decorative arts or early/mid-nineteenth century art, go there last. I say this because these rooms are always empty and you will not be battling crowds. You can then enjoy these spaces at your leisure. Both are rich, rich, rich in materials: you will find yourself nearly hypnotized by the holdings.

Last---but far from least!--go to the bookstore. Even if you are uninterested in art history books and textbooks, this is one of the best museums shops in Paris. It is filled with great gifts for children (or wonderful stuff for your children of all ages, if they're with you), mothers & mothers-in-law, and everyone else. This bookstore is not as good as it used to be, and yet it is superb.

My final recommendation: buy your ticket (or tickets) ahead of time. If you do so, you will eliminate all standing in line: you will sail by all those standing outside as if you were Queen Elizabeth (or Wills and Kate). I suggest buying through FNAC, if only because you can open an account and buy all your museum/event tickets early here, print them before you leave the US, and enjoy waving royally at the wilting peeps in the "line."

*If you do not have a ticket, be in line by 9:15 am to get in nearly as soon as the museum opens (May-Sept); if you do have the advance pre-ticket... see "Wills/Kate" note above.

Directions: The museum is located on the Left (South) Bank of the Deine, directly across from the Louvre. It can most easily be reached by taking the #12Metro to Solferino, or the RER C to Musee D'Orsay, or walking across the Passarelle Solferino from the Quai des Tuileries. Here's a map. It is a longer, but lovely walk from the Place de la Concorde across the Pont de la Concorde and along the Seine.

Associated museums:
Musee Marmottan Monet, 16th arrondissment: Monet, Morisot, Renoir in small museum
Musee Victor Hugo, 4th arrondissment: Hugo's home with special exhibitions. Bonus: located in the Place des Vosges!
Musee de l'Orangerie: 1st arrondissement: special exhibitions of Impressionist painters
Musee Carnavalet, 3rd arrondissement: a museum of the culture of Paris, medieval to modern times. Bonus: location in the Marais district!

2014... and now what?

I have definitely been absent for a while. 2013 turned out to be a complicated, crazy year full of twists and turns.

For 2014, I look forward to a return to, well, calmer waters. I have plans to spend the summer in England, teaching in both London and Oxford. I hope to take a bookbinding class, starting to learn a new skill... an "old school" kind of one.

I am also continuing my attempts to de-clutter my house and life, to get and stay healthy, to develop and strengthen my personal community, and to be more creative on all levels.

What's new, then, in the Pearl 2014 blog?

Recently I've been asked by no less than five friends to give them advice about what to see and do, where to stay and eat, and similar questions about Paris. Not surprising, really, since I've lived there twice (1999 and 2008) and visited multiple times since 1981. I know the city, although I am always learning more. Most importantly, I give great advice about things to do and see and buy while there.

I've decided to post my favorite 50 tips about visiting Paris. This will include information about travel, hotels, cafes and restaurants, shopping, museums and monuments, and even day trips. Since my travel budget was usually small, most of these will be inexpensive (verging on cheap), but some will be splurges worth every euro. I'll also point out etiquette along the way, manners and attitudes that will keep you from standing out as an Ugly American.

To my mind,the whole point of visiting someplace away from home is to engage with that place and its culture--not your own reproduced. Travelling broadens us because we aren't at home and can't act like it.

I'll also include a list of movies, books, and music that you can use to prepare yourself for visting Paris, or simply to indulge in a virtual visit.

This means every week will see a new tip plus new materials about Paris. So if you can't visit in person, you can still enjoy the City of Light.

Ten days till lift-off

Each day I am assigning myself a task to complete prior to leaving town.

Each day I plan to discuss something I will be doing, seeing, to stocking up on while in Paris... just to enjoy myself in a pre-emptive manner.

Today's task: cleaning out the car and clearing off the back porch.

Today's discussion: FNAC. This superstore with the lowest prices is located on two levels of Les Halles and features books (in French, English and everything else), music on CD, films on DVD, and all manner of electronic marvels, including batteries, phone supplies, computer supplies, camera supplies, and video games.

What the BHV is for home housewares aand papergoods, FNAC is for communctions electronics.

I go to FNAC every year to shop for:

• the newest French scholarly studies in my areas: French history of the 17th and 19th centuries, theatre, biographies, and arts
• French-English dictionaries and grammar books (yes, I have them at home but usually buy a cheap one I discard in the apartment I rent: saves me luggage space and weight)
• CDs of French/European opera and classical music (much wider selection), French cafe and pop music, French jazz, world music (all CDs work in American electronics)
• any or all computer supplies: computer mouse, thumb drives, USB cables, etc.
• cheap paperbacks in English (apply when necessary)

FNAC also has a ticket bureau for concerts, operas, and other events.

Why do I love FNAC? Because I can find the studies I need as a scholar side-by-side with CDs by world artists and French pop singers that I have a decided weakness for. I always find something new that I need or simply want.

Like the BHV, this store is a must-know resource for anyone who needs a camera, a phone, or anything like that or its accessories and doesn't want to drop mega-euros in tourist spots.

Sidenote: do watch your pockets and purses on the escalators and open spaces. Pickpockets cruise here in large numbers because it is on the edge of one small red light district and always filled with teens (shoppers, skateboarders, hanging out), and tourists looking for the fast foods of McDonalds, Starbucks, KFC, and others that some American tourists and all French teens gravitate to.

Don't eat in Les Halles or its square. Cross over to the cafes by the Centre Pompidou or the Place du Chatelet for better choices, prices and views. Five to ten-minute walk and so very worth it: the food is 200% better for fewer euros and the bennies of the view and staff attitude will make you blissful.

Off on an adventure!

Sorry to be so spotty about entries lately. I am off today to Savannah, Georgia, to a conference and have been writing and prepping my presentation over the last week. It is al-most ready to go, which is good, although I am not up until tomorrow at 4 pm.

Very excited about going to Savannah, which is a place I have never been before. I plan to visit the home of Juliette Low, the founder of the Girl Scouts, as well as do a walking tour of the historical sites on Saturday. And eat good Low Country cooking and barbecue.

My presentation is on William Gillette, the American actor who created the persona of Sherlock Holmes for the stage, which then made its way into film and television. I am talking about the enduring legacy of Gillette, even in the newest batch of Holmes films and programming.

William Gillette, about the turn of the century

Gillette as Holmes on stage

Gillette was an inventor and playwright as well as actor, and left his "castle" in Connecticut, which one can still visit. He was a friend and protege of Mark Twain.

Travelling question: suitcases

Martha asks, "Could you please mention what sort of luggage you used, and whether you would recommend it? I'm off for a 12 day trip to London, Paris and Munich in late October, early November, almost all work, but dressy casual work. I need to replace old and heavy luggage. I've been thinking about Eagle Creek Tarmac 28", but am now wondering if a Red Oxx Sky Train would be better, provided I cut down what I take. I'm strong, but am leery of hauling a non-wheeled suitcase from train station to train station. Any thoughts? Thanks!"

I bring three items: a 21" or 24" roller bag, a backpack or full-size tote bag (carry-on), and a purse (pack or carry-on). This will cover me for 5 days to 5 weeks (using the larger suitcase).

I have an inexpensive fabric roller suitcase, 21", with no exterior storage space and an interior-lid net/zip compartment. It also expands 2". This is perfect for travel for 3-10 days, in my opinion. Something like this.

For longer trips, I have a 24" roller, also expandable, with an exterior compartment and an interior-lid compartment. I've used this American Tourister suitcase for anything from 10 days to 6 weeks. It is indestructable.

Personally, I highly recommend a roller suitcase for so many reasons. Europe is filled with hotels & B&Bs without elevators, train stations, bad pavement, busses and subways. I also recommend that you bring nothing more than a 20-24" for 12 days--which will limit your packing--and plan to buy a small suitcase in one of these cities and fill it with souvenirs and memorabilia. Or bring a folding tote in your suitcase. I've done both with great results. Easier and smarter than leaving space in the suitcase you bring: you'll never leave enough space for what you buy. Get the best roller wheels you can buy: meaning smooth and durable. I don't worry about them being all-direction swivel, but simply not cheap.

The fact is that you don't want a heavy, clumsy suitcase and you don't want too many clothes. For instance, you won't need more than one all-weather jacket this time of year. It should be waterproof in case of rain, fold small for your daily carry-bag, and keep out wind.

And on that note: do bring something to use everyday while you are out and about. Like a tote that zips across the top. I sometimes use a backpack, but that doesn't translate well to shopping. A cross-body bag is best, one with zippers and several pockets to stash the wallet, the map, the subway tickets, etc., that won't bother you while you walk.

Tagged by Tish

Tish at A Femme d'Un Certain Age today included my 6.15 post on packing as well as my comment in her lovely blog.

I must admit: packing and thinking about packing has gotten easier since I purged my closet. It took moving and eight months of hemming and hawing, but in May when I came to pack for a 10-day trip that included a conference in Boston, a very casual visit to my family in New York, and a visit to old friends in D.C. with a day of museum-hopping, I had a well-pruned summer wardrobe that could be fitted down for each event. I'll be reliving this process for an upcoming weekend conference in Savannah this September, a four-day trip that will combine giving a paper and mingling with other academics with touring Savannah's historic and gastronomic sites.

I look forward to holding the same kind of purge for my winter-fall wardrobe, but since "fall" begins somewhere around October 20 here in the Big D, there's no rush.

It has made a huge difference not to have excess or--better word!--superfluous clothing in my closet. It also makes a difference to have everything in there ready to go in terms of fit, repairs, and cleanliness. Small, consistent progress and, in some cases, simple attention to detail make it so easy without stealing time and energy from me.

Should I say now that I am returning two pairs of sandals I ordered on-line because once I got them I realized they were both impulsive buys and superfluous? Why not? Pretty but unnecessary additions to my working wardrobe.

What did I add to my summer wardrobe in 2011?

• a vintage scarf bought on Etsy that depicts Greek tourist spots (turquoise, orange, and white)
• a brown skirt with white trim from Coldwater Creek, on sale
• a green skirt, same source, same sale
• a white Tignanello purse, bought on Ebay
• an orange canvas/brown leather tote bag, found & free 

That's it. Surprises me to say that, as usually I feel some huge gap that needs to be plugged. Not so this summer, apparently.

Utah, again

My trip to Utah was amazing, just in terms of landscapes.

One day, to Cedar Breaks (previous pictures), one day to Bryce Canyon, and one day to Zion National Park. Unfortunately, we couldn't spend a lot of time in any of them, because my friend was performing most every day at the Utah Shakespeare Festival... and possibly because I am not a big hiker.

But here are some more pictures, from Bryce Canyon (looking down) and Zion (looking up). I cna see why Brigham Young might just have thought he'd found the perfect place to stop.



Bryce Canyon




Bryce Canyon




Bryce Canyon




Bryce Canyon




Indian Paintbrush




Lightning strike tree, tattooed by...




Sunset at Zion--no touch-ups!

We hit both parks close to sunset, especially Zion, where you can take a free bus through the park getting on and off at various stops. I have more pictures of this place, but it was simply nice to look up (and up and up!) and see people hiking on the top of the peaks.

Oh, and then to go eat dinner in the nearby town with friends.

Utah

Just to give a hint of what I've been up to this week.

Bristlecone pines

Indian paintbrush

Bryce Canyon

Cedar Breaks

Vacation

Since it is summer, I am taking a small vacation. Leaving town (and the sun-surface temps) to go visit a friend. I am flying into Las Vegas tomorrow, and then we're driving up to Utah, where she is working at a  summer theatre (one of the more famous summer theatres!).

This week, I was planning to spend a good deal of time preparing for my va-cay, but instead I found myself dealing with sinus infection. Oh, well.

But here are my plans for today:

• pick up prescriptions and cat litter
• lay out and pack clothes (for six days, including two on planes)
• clean kitchen and bathroom
• set out directions for cat care by sitter
• prep camera, iPod, Nook, and laptop for travel: charging, loading, etc.
• get out suitcase and carry-on tote
• call cab for 1-mile tip to airport...

Of course, I've never been to Las Vegas, so this is kind of exciting. Right--me and a few Amish people.

How did I never go to Vegas before?

In my former life I had a roommate who worked for Don King who went to Vegas regularly to attend fights--I turned down two separate invitations to go along. Why? No interest in professional boxing (or actually any other kind).

I did go to Atlantic City with two friends, once, after it became America's second gambling city (again, part of my former life). I spent the evening watching one friend lose a couple hundred dollars at the slots and the other play blackjack. Bo-ring.

My overnight two years ago in Reno reminded me why I dislike casinos: smoking, noise, and the desperate smell of people gambling and losing. Winning probably smells, sounds, feels different, but most people lose, yeah?

Watching people gamble is not interesting. At least, to me.

That said, I am actually looking forward to seeing live the color, sounds, and action of Las Vegas.

And, after that, Utah. I mean, look at these photos!

How does Vegas compare to these?

Travelling with a small suitcase

For maybe the first time ever, my travel wardrobe was, in the words of Goldilocks, "Just right."

I used/wore everything I took, except one scarf and the red raincoat (but weather reports said rain rain rain for both Boston and the Hudson Valley). I took:

• jeans
• khakis
• a red print wrap skirt
• a rust-colored gored skirt
• t-shirts: black, gray, and lt. gray
• 3/4-sleeve t-shirt, a little dressier and black
• blue button-up shirt
• a black cardigan
• a khaki jacket
• a black dress

plus 3 pairs shoes, purse, tote, underwear, slip, 2 scarves, jewelry, 2 belts, pjs... and I wore everything! It was a 20" suitcase and I brought 5 books and a case of cosmetics/hair care/body care products, too.

Back on line!

I've been out of town and dealing with stepping up to the summer schedule I created for myself. That's been giving me a lot of "to do" priorities.

 

Things I'll be talking about in the next week or so:

1. My annual check-up and summer cooking
2. Big D's Farmer's Market: is it worth it?
3. My trip to the Great NorthEast
4. Paris: the Caillebotte Brothers' exhibition (would that I were in Paris!)
5. Downsizing my stuff
6. Temptations
7. Men in Power
8. Bad Chat

Yes, a lot has happened that I've been thinking about, talking about, and doing. Looking forward to sharing!

Boston

Another interesting week!

Finally, after a month of planning, I am in Boston. In a lovely hotel room overlooking Copley Square. And last night I had a delicious dinner of lemon sole with one of the best martinis I've ever had. Seafood that doesn't have to be flown in... because they make it near here.... Ahhhh!

This morning was quiet. I was up in the wee hours because I never sleep well in a hotel the first night. I was able to watch the sun come up on the Charles, a few folks out sculling, and gradually note the increased traffic noise. The air is cool and crisp, and the day looks beautiful.

After a lifetime of going to conferences I finally (accidentally) figured out that to fly in one day early is a great thing! I have all day today to relax, putter, tinker with the paper, and tomorrow (at 8:10) I give it. Then drive off to my folks' house.

I may go back to have dinner at the same place tonight. It is only a block or so from the hotel and I didn't get to try the steamed mussles, fried clams, clam chowder, or apple pie. And a second perfect martini? Ahhh.

Being at a conference is excellent: you gain no weight, no charges actually go on your credit card, and people bring you things.  Like, just now, the housekeeper brought me more coffee packets and soap. I remember why I love taxis and room service.

Because this is my HUGE reward for finishing the move out of the Old Apartment. Yes: finito!

Monday and Tuesday I put in the final hours shredding documents, hauling garbage to the dumpster, and token-cleaning the apartment. I could only token-clean because, a week ago, the hot water heater rusted through its base and dumped gallons of water through the ceiling and onto the first floor. Since I am not living there, I walked in on the aftermath: my landlord had heard the deluge and turned off the water, but he hadn't done anything else. I saw the mess (puddles of water on the floor, dripping ceiling, buckled wooden laminate) and walked down to his apartment. "Oh, yeah," he said, "I was going to email you as soon as I sent these important business messages." O-kay.

I went back and mopped, laid out towels, and placed buckets/pans/vessels to catch the drips as best I could.
Upside:

• none of my belongings were affected by the water because I had moved out already and the little remaining stuff was out of the way
• my renter's insurance can't be tapped for it because none of my stuff was damaged
• the water is turned off in the apartment so I could not clean it
• I had already cleaned the bathroom and some of the kitchen, which were unaffected by the soaking

The ceiling continued to drip, and two days later a huge portion of it crashed onto the floor, creating a worse mess.  Again, none of my remaining things were affected.

Saturday, one of my students came and helped me move the remaining furniture and papers to the New Apartment. I made three trips that day and two with him: he is a great kid but super-strong and has a truck. Two fantastic qualifications.

Monday and Tuesday I finished off the Old Apartment, including doing my best to clean the refrigerator, microwave, countertops, bathroom sink and toilet, and bathroom floor without water. I swept up a lot of the ceiling pieces (some more than 8 ft. long!) and toted to dumpster. The worst part of the ceiling detritus was stuck to the floor and will require more effort to get it up.

Left keys under mat of landlord (he wans't home) and came home to crash for a few hours. Then pack.

Yesterday, up at 5:30 for the shuttle to the airport, and here I am. On vacation... oh, and yes, I must tinker with the paper, print it out at the business office, check in to the conference, and have dinner (again) at that delightful restaurant.

So happy to be here!

The Vay-Cay

Here's where I was last week.

More later. Home now, cleaning house and smooching with Jack, the poor neglected cat.

Pearl